I had been itching to add a mirror above our console table, and finally got around to it. The idea came to me when I visited a friend and saw her awesome Pottery Barn Eagan Mirror. I knew it would be possible to make one at a fraction of the cost. By using wood instead of metal, you can easily recreate this statement mirror. Here is how it turned out!
Supplies & Tools Needed
- Miter Saw or Miter Box
- Mirror Adhesive– $5.22
- 8″x 8″ Beveled Mirrors– $45
- 1/2″ Thick Plywood 4×8′– You will have a ton left over for other projects- $28.97
- 12′ of Corner Molding– $25.00
- 2- 8′ Lengths of Screen Molding– $4.40
- Clear Star Rosette– $4.38
- 7/16″ Aluminum Tacks– $1.62
- Oil Rubbed Bronze Spray Paint– $6.76
- Nailer- Already owned
- 1 1/4″ Nails- Already owned
- Toggle Bolts – $5
- D Ring Hanger 50lb Limit- $4
- Wood Glue- Already owned
Total $130! That’s less than half the price of the Pottery Barn version!
Double check all your measurements. Specifically take a look at the true measurements of your mirrors. I didn’t have issues with my mirrors being dimensions other than 8″ x 8″, but I read other blogs where people doing similar projects had issues. Make sure everything is measured out prior to making your cuts.
1. You’ll need to first figure out how big you want your mirror to be. My mirror is based off of a rectangular shape, with 3- 8″ square mirrors across and 4 mirrors down. My directions and dimensions are based on including the 12 mirrors. Depending on how many mirrors you use, you’ll need to start off by doing some calculations. I started by drawing out my mirror and then calculating approximately how big my board was going to need to be. Based on having 12 individual mirrors that were each 8″ square, 1 1/8″ molding for the outside, and 3/4″ molding between each of the mirrors…I was able to calculate that my mirror would be approximately 27 3/4″ wide and 37 1/2″ tall. Below is an illustration that will help to lay out the dimensions. 2. Using a table saw, I cut my plywood down to 2′ 3 1/2″ by 3′ 1/4″.
3. Cut your corner molding down to size. I cut two pieces down to 2′ 3 3/4″, and the two vertical pieces to 3′ 1/2″. Measurements were made from the outer corner. All cuts were made with my miter saw set at a 45 degree angle. Once the cuts were made, I used wood glue to adhere the molding down to the piece of plywood and then nailed them in.
4. Once the corners were glued down, I then started placing the mirrors down to figure out the spacing for the screen molding. I made a little tape handle and placed it on the mirror, so I could easily pull it out and off of the mirror since I wasn’t ready yet to glue them down.
5. I cut 2 vertical pieces of the screen molding at 2′ 10 1/4″. I then cut 9 pieces of the screen molding that would run horizontal across the mirror at 8″. I used wood glue and nailed the molding down to the plywood. I kept my mirrors in place while I was gluing and nailing everything in, I did not pull them off the plywood until the end of this step.
6. Then I used wood putty to fill in all nail holes. After the wood putty dried, i sanded it smooth.
7. I then used the carpet tacks to nail the mirror rosettes in the intersections of the screen molding. When you’re nailing be careful to nail perfectly straight, I can’t tell you how many little plastic rosettes I shattered.
8. After everything was nailed into place, I started spray painting the mirror. Using the Oil Rubbed Bronze Spray Paint, I started on the top and gave the mirror several light, quick sprays over all the tacks, rosettes, and screen molding. I worked my way to the sides, and also spray painted the sides of the corner molding. I would let the paint dry for about 30 minutes between each of the 3 light coats I gave the mirror.
9. I waited about 24 hours for everything to dry before using the Mirror Adhesive to glue the mirrors down. I used a lot of glue on the mirror just because I was pretty nervous that everything was going to coming crashing down. If there are 12 mirrors, would that have counted as 84 years of bad luck?
10. Then the mirror was ready to be hung! And I was terrified. One side of the mirror would be able to go directly into a stud, but the other would not. I ended up calling my friend who has the actual mirror to see what they had used to hang theirs. Since they had used toggle bolts, and my mirror was about half the size, I figured I would be ok with the same. I ended up picking up a toggle bolt that said it could hold up to 75lbs. Yes I weighed my mirror, and it came in about 40. I screwed in d-ring hangers to the back of the mirror, and then screwed the Molly bolt into the wall side where I could not screw into a stud.
11. Finished! Although I did not breathe a sigh of relief for several days as I waited to see if the mirror was going to stay put. I may have placed pillows under the mirror for its first night up on the wall. You know just in case it decided to leap off the wall.